Los Tilos Tunnels, La Palma

On an island with many must-do hikes, Los Tilos still looms large in every guidebook.  It has it all. Gushing waterfalls, water channels, black tunnels, sheer cliffs, flooded trails, deep canyons, and beautiful vistas. 

Unfortunately it is tough to get to the head of the trail, as a rough gravel road is the only way up and 4x4 taxis charge 60 euros per carload to make the ascent.  Ouch.  I suppose that if the road was paved, more people would hike the dangerous trail, so perhaps this is a method of crowd control.  The other way up to the trail is an arduous ascent or decent down the canyon to Los Tiles visitor center.  Either way, it is difficult to make a circular hike of it without a padded wallet or two sturdy cars. Rob and I had neither the dual cars or the wish to waste money on a taxi, so we did it the only other way it can be done, a huge 16 mile hiking circuit which took a lot of effort and almost 8 hours.  It was still worth it. 

Parking at Los Tilos, we climbed up the canyon for a steady 3 hours, with an steady rain dipping down on us from the canopy of trees.  The overcast weather meant that we were denied any views, but the wetness seemed appropriate in what was after all a rainforest.  

Finally we arrived at the head of the roaring springs, which were gushing straight out of the side of the mountain, collected up in a handmade water channel which hugged the side of the mountain.  La Palma is one of the few canary islands with natural springs.  The water from the Marcos and Cordero springs in this canyon provides water for the towns and farms near the coast.

 

The "Wet" Tunnel

We had seen water canals in Tenerife, but those had been mainly dry.  This one was full to the brim, and when the canal dropped sharply, the water was a frothly mass pouring down the hillside.  I wondered if this was where someone got the idea for a slide at a water park....hmmm. 

There are 12 tunnels in the trail along the water channel, which we were happy to see was almost on level ground after the leg-sapping climb to get up to it.   The second tunnel we encountered was also the only time we saw any other hikers along the whole trail. 

The people we met were wild-eyed, dripping wet, and carrying headlamps.  Sure enough, we had arrived at the "wet" tunnel.  The ceiling was pouring water, the trail was flooded with fast moving streams, and the tunnel "windows" looked out over a sheer cliff.  We suited up with waterproof jackets and braved the opening.  Balancing along the canal top didn't keep our feet dry but felt more reassuring than the streams flowing by on both sides.  I'm sure we were a bit wild-eyed as well when we popped out the other end!

The tunnels continued, some long, short, wide, narrow, high, and quite low.  We were progressing quite well in the beam of our dim headlamps (why do I never bring anything brighter along!?!) when I missed a protruding bump in the ceiling and brained myself so loudly that Rob heard the crash up ahead of me.  Luckily my thick cap kept me from a knockout blow which would have tumbled me into the canal, to be fished out in much worse shape. 

After two hours of sheer cliffs, smothering tunnels, and the endless flow of water, we arrived at the end of the trail and the start of the gravel road.  While the big excitement was over, only a bird could reach our car from where we were at the moment.   So, the trail was now a long descent back down into town on the PRLP 6.  Luckily the sun came out and it was finally able to warm my freezing fingers and toes.  The descent was marred only by the final 2 kilometer climb to our car on the road, which of course we knew about and dreaded in advance, having driven it that morning. 

Even with the 3 hour ascent I would do this hike again, it's that awesome.  Although a shared taxi up to the start is probably preferred. 

Hike #25 in Walk! La Palma hiking guide.  OR  Walk #31 in Walking On La Palma suggests the whole route we walked rather than just the "exciting" parts of the circle.  However this guide dulls down the exciting bits, so ignore the boring description and just get out there and find a way hike the tunnels!

Refugio El Pilar descent to Santa Cruz, La Palma

After a big hike along the volcano route, it was nearing the end of the day and our hotel was almost a vertical mile below us on the beach.  It seemed fitting that I should run down rather than drive back, so I quickly lightened my pack and hit the trail on the run.   There are quite a few trails descending the east side of the ridge and I didn't want to find myself on a bad trail with night descending.   Luckily Walk #8 in Walking On La Palma laid out a clear trail which was in olden days the original donkey trail route from Fuencaliente to El Pilar down to the port at Santa Cruz.  The olden days don't mean that many years ago either, as roads have only come fairly recently to an island population used to toiling up and down the steep trails. 

The trail was steep, very steep.  From pine needles to sharp rocks to field trails to banana plantations, I saw the whole island open before my eyes as I swept by.  I was amazed at how much of the trail was still rocky singletrack, as on the lower slopes a criss-cross of roads and towns hugged the slopes. But it was also a showcase of all the wonderful variety of vegetation and the changes in what grew as the elevation lessened.  My legs got a workout but my lungs mercifully had a break, as the trail never faltered from its downhill slant to go back uphill or even much flat.  In 8 miles and a quick hour and a half I was watching the waves crash onto the shore. Looking back up at the fog shrouded ridge, it seemed a long way back up.  I was glad that the return trip wasn't mandatory!  (Oh, and Rob took the photos as he drove down in the car...I wasn't stopping for anything.)

Teide volcano towers over the silhouette of Tenerife



A dragon tree...native to the island



The Volcano Trail, La Palma

After a few days on La Palma we started to wonder if the ridge of the island would always be in fog.  After all we were down here for some warmth, sun, and enjoyable hiking.  Fog we can get plenty of in the UK.  We learned to pack the car with everything we might need when we left for the day, and it paid off for us when we noticed the ridge finally visible as we were headed in the other direction.  With a screech of tires we were driving up to the Refugio El Pilar and the start of the fabled Volcano Ridge.  Although the road was shrouded in fog, we had hopes that we might emerge above it and see the trail stretching before us. 

Hike #8 in Walk! La Palma hiking guide. 

The trail begins in pine trees and continues up and up into more pine trees.  Although I love canary pines, after a few miles I started wondering whether any volcanoes would ever appear on this "Ruta de los Volcanes".   Eventually they did.  Eventually even the sun came out, and sure enough we had a clear view of the volcanic craters as we hikes around, over, and through them.  Unlike the large crater to the north, these tiny cones are part of recent history.  Seven eruptions have been recorded in the last 500 years or so, in a line marching down the ridge to the sea. 

After we were sufficiently awed by the views and the route, it was time to turn around.  The nature of the trail meant that a circular hike was difficult and mostly unneeded, as seeing the trail twice was definitely no hardship.  It was mostly easy walking and once out of the trees had no major climbs.  We turned around just before we would have descended into the cold fog, happy to stay in the sunshine, even with a sandwich stop and quick nap on soft pine needles in a sheltered valley.  Alas, the fog rose with us during the return, and followed us most of the hike home. 

The trail is well marked and impossible to lose.  Although the dual trail marking system, old and new, was evident on this path more than most others.   Awkwardly, both trail signs always pointed to the same destinations, yet gave differing mileage distances.  Not sure why it takes two sets of trail markers anyway, it seems the old ones should have been removed...?  And which distance was correct?  All part of the charm of La Palma.

This section of trail is also part of the GR131 long-distance route along the spine of La Palma.  More famously, it is also the route of the ultrarunning race called the Transvulcania, held in May every year.  Starting and finishing at sea level, it is a tough race of almost 52 miles and 8500 meters of elevation change.   I won't make the race this year, but after seeing the trail would love to come back for it someday!


Tenerife in thedistance



Teneguia Volcano, La Palma

After descending from Bejenado Peak, we drove to the southern end of the island where the volcano craters are much smaller and more recent.  Indeed, a short hike (ok, really short as it was windy and cold and almost the end of the day so 20 minutes was long enough) brought us to the crater rim of the Teneguia Volcano.   This was the most recent eruption along the dorsal ridge of La Palma, erupting in 1971.  From the half circle left of the top, we could trace the line of lava that wound down the hillside and all the way to the seashore. 




I was fascinated with the lava rocks, so light and airy and colorful.  I soon had a small collection of wildly colored rocks in my hand, which seemed to weight nothing and yet fill so much space.  Shhh, don't tell anyone that I brought a few small ones home.

Hike #10 in Walk! La Palma hiking guide.  Although, really, we only walked a fraction of this route as we were cold, tired hikers from our earlier walk that day.  I'm sure the whole route is worth doing, but expect to fill your shoes with picon, or fine volcanic dust from a sliding descent!

Bejenado Peak, La Palma

Having explored the high northern realm of the island, we headed to the middle, where fog hung on the ridge but the crater was still bathed in sunshine.  In a moment of inspiration we pointed the car towards the sunny peak of Bejenado, with the best views looking into and over the crater.   The semi-circular 11 km hike started at the end of the gravel road (or at least as far as our rental car wanted to drive) and meandered up and up in to the beautiful green pine forests which carpet the middle slopes of La Palma.   The whole hike was a joy.  Have I mentioned I love pine forests?  The deep blue sky, orange pine needle path, bright green trees, and the forest-fire blackened trunks made for some delicious contrasts.  It's little wonder that my favorite colors are green and blue...the green of spring leaves and the blue, blue sky.

But don't worry when I say blackened trunks...I think every pine tree in La Palma has survived a fire at one point or another.  Then they regrow new needles and carry on.   

Reaching the peak brought another delight, the whole semi-circular crater opened up before us.  Our return route was along the ridge, with more gorgeous views and finally overlooking La Cumbricita and the edge of the crater cliffs.  From there we descended through more pine forests (how I love them) along a quiet carpet of pine needles.   It seemed a classic route and well worth it for the views...but much, much better on a sunny day.   We noticed that many other days the peak was shrouded in cloud and wouldn't have been nearly as nice, so we got lucky there.

Hike #32 in Walk! La Palma hiking guide.  Although this guide doesn't mention the alternative descent along the ridge, which is clearly marked on the trail except for a key intersection back down near the fireroad.   Almost perfect.  Walk #15 in Walking On La Palma does show the alternate, but this book has worse maps and a very boring style of writing route descriptions.  I didn't use this guide much because it was such a dull read. On the other hand, it gave good descriptions and was small enough to fit in a pocket.

Taburiente Crater Rim, La Palma

There is something to be said for the fact that the free map of La Palma at the visitors center has all the hiking trails well marked, and yet barely shows the roads!   This accentuates just how much La Palma is a hiking paradise.  On Tenerife I could barely find a hiking map, even though there are great trails there as well.

Our first foray on La Palma was a long drive up to the rim of the crater.  The steepest island lived up to its billing, and the road was one switchback after another all the way up the side of the mountain. The fog stayed away so we had clear views on all sides and then down into the huge hole in the earth.  It was really too big to comprehend, and somehow less spectacular on top than when seen from the bottom....but beautiful all the same.   We took a hike along the rim trail, but it was freezing COLD.   With horizontal (rather than vertical) icicles hanging intricately from the bushes, we wore all the warm clothes we had brought along and wished for more.  Luckily the sun was warm and the winds were calm.  I was fascinated with the delicate ice formations, which seemed to have formed in a stiff wind or fog, yet opposite from the direction of the prevailing east wind.  They began to tinkle merrily from the fences as the sun warmed the ground. 

The GR131 long distance trail was tough and rocky, undulating across the uneven crater rim.  Honestly, being a bit travel weary, we didn't walk uber-far on it, prefering after a couple of miles to continue the drive around the rim and then explore the northern island to get a sense of what was awaiting us.   Plus, it was warmer in the car.  What wimps we were that day.

All of the observatories emphasize that this would be a really good spot for some star-gazing.   If only it weren't so cold up here....
Hike #27 in Walk! La Palma hiking guide.  Bonus is that with the matching 1:40,000 Tour and Trail Map, we could use them in conjunction to plan our routes and drive around.  It's worth noting that since all of the trails and roads on the island have been renumbered in the last couple of years, older maps and guidebooks will get you hopelessly lost.  Get an updated version before you go.